Muscular Endurance Training for Mountaineering

View from Grouse Mountain - Muscular Endurance Training for Mountaineering
View from a trail higher up on Grouse Mountain

Muscular Endurance (ME) for me is the most strenuous workout of my mountaineering training. As I wrap up my second cycle of Uphill Athlete’s Mountaineering Plan, I would like to share my Muscular Endurance training experience. 

The Basics

“Muscular endurance (ME) is the ability of a muscle to produce a relatively high percentage of its maximum force for many repetitions without fatiguing.” – Uphill Athlete 

For me, it is the ability to handle long days in the mountain with a heavy backpack without getting exhausted. For example, on a local climb like Garibaldi NE Face, carrying a pack of about 30 lbs for an overnight trip and having enough energy to do the technical climb with an alpine start.

Lessons from Last Year

Last year, I did a mix of outdoor and indoor Muscular Endurance workouts in my first cycle of training. Outdoors – I would go up one of the trails on Grouse, and indoors I would use a Stairmaster. I started with a backpack weight of 27 lbs (20% of my body weight) and gradually increased it to 33 lbs over eight weeks. 

Grouse Mountain Trail - Muscular Endurance Training for Mountaineering
Oudi scrambling up. One of the steeper trails I did last year as part of ME workout

Although the workout is called “Z3 (Zone 3) Weighted Climb” in the Uphill Athlete Mountaineering training plan, ideally, the heart rate should be much lower (Zone 1/2). Your pace should be limited by the leg muscles (because of the weight) and not from the higher heart rate. 

When I look back at these workouts, I realize that I was not carrying enough weight. I started with a relatively lighter load to be conservative and not hurt my knees. However, even with 33 lbs, I was able to go at a steady pace resulting in a much higher pace and heart rate.

Back then, my Aerobic Threshold (AeT – top of Zone 2) was 140 bpm, and on some outdoor ME workouts, my HR was higher than 140 most of the time. A heavier backpack would have slowed me down, kept the heart rate in Zone 1/2 and triggered the desired burning legs sensation.

Muscular Endurance Workout

I started my second cycle of mountaineering training around the end of November. After a phone consultation with Scott Johnston, I jumped right into the Base period of training.

Uphill Athlete Mountaineering Training Plan
Sample Week of last phase of Uphill Athlete Mountaineering Training Plan

After eight weeks of Base period training, I started Mountaineering specific training in the last week of January. In this eight-week phase, I would be doing one ME workout every week with the exception of two recovery weeks.

I decided to do all my ME workouts outdoors on the BCMC trail on Grouse Mountain. It is fairly steep at around 28% grade and is great for these workouts. I could drive to the trailhead after work and take the Gondola down, so it was very convenient as well. Later in the season, once Grouse Grind is open, it would be another great option for ME workouts.

Grouse Mountain Trails - great for Muscular Endurance Training for Mountaineering
Grouse Grind and BCMC Trail Info

For my first ME workout this year, I loaded my 35L pack with my weight vest and other items to get a total weight of 49 lb. In my mountaineering boots, I plodded up the trail, and it took me around two hours and fifteen minutes to get to the top. In winter conditions without a pack and at a pace where I maintain my heart rate around my Aerobic Threshold (now 150), it would take me about an hour and fifteen minutes.

The load was good, but I had to change the backpack. My 35L pack didn’t provide enough padding over the waist belt, and it was painful to carry it up the hill. For the next workout, I switched to my 70L Osprey Pack and this time, it took me about two hours to get up the mountain.

Over the next few weeks, I gradually increased the weight. I replaced the weight vest with water jugs and some other gear to make up for the weight. On my last Muscular Endurance workout, I carried around 56 lbs (41% of body weight), and it took me about an hour and fifty-five minutes to hike up the BCMC trail. 

The Benefits

Earlier this month, I planned to do a 30 km Panorama Ridge hike in Garibaldi Provincial Park with my friend. Past the 6 km, we found ourselves in knee-deep snow. A year back, I would have turned back right then. But, that day I was physically and mentally prepared to do more. I ended up breaking trail for another 4 km. Even with the change in plans, we did a 19 km hike to Taylor Meadows-Garibaldi Lake. It was exhausting, but it was one of my best hikes this winter and I have never felt so good.

Taylor Meadows hike - powered by Endurance
Taylor Meadows – Garibaldi Provincial Park

Muscular Endurance is still one of the hardest workouts in my training, but now I look forward to it. As I know it will help me be ready for the upcoming climbing season.  

Resources:

Uphill Athlete Muscular Endurance Articles: Training for Mountaineering | Vertical Beast Mode

BC Trails Info: Vancouver Trails | Outdoor Vancouver

Disclosure: I am a moderator on Uphill Athlete forum. I am not affiliated with any of the other organizations.

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