Kasturi and I were in Ladakh for 12 days in December 2019 to do the Markha Valley Trek. I have shared my experience in three blog posts, and this is the second in the series. The first post describes our time in Leh before the trek, and the third post is about our day trips around Leh after the trek. Continue reading to know what it is like to hike Markha Valley in winter and to meet some interesting characters – BlackSmith, Rider, Climber and an Ultrarunner.
Markha Valley Trek – DIY or Guided?
Markha Valley Trek is probably one of the most popular treks in Ladakh. There is lot of information online about this trek, so I debated for a long time on whether to hire a guide or to do it ourselves. Here are the things I considered to make a decision:
- Group Experience – is this an experienced group? Have we done similar treks as a group?
- Terrain – how familiar are we with this terrain? How is it in winter?
- Rescue – if something goes wrong, are we capable of managing the situation? What if one of us was to get Altitude Sickness?
- Porter support – is everyone in the group fit enough to carry a 30-40 lb backpack for the duration of the trip at high altitude?
An honest evaluation of these items favoured hiring a guide with porter support.
Ecological Footprint
Once we had finalized to do Markha Valley trek, I started reaching out to local trek operators to see if they still operated in December (most operate June-September). Stanzin at Ecological Footprint stood out for his responsiveness among the agencies I had contacted. He confirmed that he would be able to organize the trek for us. Hence, we booked our trip with Stanzin.
The day after we arrived in Leh, Stanzin came to Sia La guesthouse with Ali, who would be our guide for the trek. The plan was to do a gear check and go through the itinerary. Our original trek plan was to start from Zingchen, hike over two mountain passes Kongmaru La and Ganda La, and finish the trek at Shang Sumdo. La in Tibetan means (mountain) pass.
Markha Valley Trek Map
Change of Plans
Stanzin said there is more snow than he expected. As a result, we won’t be able to do Kongmaru La. The new plan was to trek till Markha and then come back to Skiu. I was disappointed as hiking to Kongmaru La was the highlight of the trek. However, I was glad that we would at least get to walk through Ganda La.
As I mentioned in my previous post, Brady had to go to the Emergency Room at the local hospital on our second day in Leh. After he was treated, Brady felt better in two hours. However, the doctor asked him to rest and do a follow-up after 2-3 days. I believe he had mild altitude sickness.
Kent, Kundan, Kasturi and I would start the hike as planned on December 3. Meanwhile, Brady would rest at the guesthouse and Stanzin would take him to the hospital on December 4. If the doctor said Brady was good to go on the trek, Stanzin would drop him off at Skiu. I know it was hard for Brady to miss the first three days, but there was no other option.
While we were away on the trek, Barb and Morgan would be exploring Likir and Alchi.
Day 1: Leh – Zingchen – Yurutse
December 3: 5 km and 3 hours hike
The taxi to drop us off at Zingchen arrived at the guesthouse around 7:30 am. Stanzin was waiting with our guide Ali. Soon, Manish and Ravinder – two porters from the Jammu region arrived.
Manish and Ravinder would be carrying military-grade sleeping bags, food, emergency oxygen and lunchboxes in addition to their gear. I am guessing their backpacks weighed at least 50 lb each.
Gear for Markha Valley Trek
Here is what I carried in my backpack –
I ended up using most of the items I had packed except for shell pants, insect repellent and cutlery. Once in Leh, we got some dry fruits from the market and made our trail mix. One item I wish we had packed was some kind of traction device like microspikes; these would have been great on the way to Shingo and our hike to Skiu.
After three hours of driving, the taxi dropped us off a couple of kilometres ahead of Zingchen. We started hiking at around 11:30 am. Shortly, we left the dirt road to get on the trail towards Yurutse. Although we were not hungry, we took a lunch break around 1 pm.
Each of us got a steel or plastic box. It had chapati, boiled potato, cheese slice, boiled egg, some salt, a chocolate bar and juice. It was a unique combination. Over the next few days, few items would change, but overall, lunch remained the same.
After three hours of hiking Yurutse was in sight. It was an easy hike with minimal elevation gain.
Yurutse – One Family Village
Just one family lived in this village. An old lady was sitting outside in the sun doing some chores, while everyone else in the family had gone to a nearby town.
Ali talked to the lady and arranged our homestay for the night. We got one room with four beds and blankets. There was no electric/gas heating in homestay. Rooms are heated primarily using wood stove (Bukhari) for a limited time. Some homes have solar panels that provide enough electricity for some essential lighting and charging needs.
Toilets in these remote regions are dry composting ones. It’s a small room with a hole in the floor and a composting area below. After each use, you dump some mud with a shovel. For a region that receives minimal rainfall, I think it is an ingenious system.
For now, we made ourselves comfortable in the kitchen with a cup of hot tea.
Chai Time is Chat Time
The conversation got interesting pretty soon. The lady would say something in Bodhi (local language), Ali would translate it in Hindi, and then I would interpret in English. Later, Kent would ask a question, and we would go the other way. Ali’s English was pretty good, and he would spare me the trouble once in a while.
Later in the afternoon, the rest of the family arrived. The lady’s son and daughter-in-law…no wait; there was someone else as well—a baby wrapped around the son’s back. If Ergobaby saw this baby wrap, they would probably patent it.
Kunsal was ten months old. He was amused to see all these strangers in his grandma’s kitchen, but he hung around and allowed us to entertain him. For dinner we had rice, dal and a vegetable curry.
A big group of locals arrived later in the evening. We had seen these locals earlier in the day as they were doing some survey work in the mountains. In a year or two, there might be a road to Yurutse.
Ladakhi Kitchen
There was another kitchen where these locals were having tea and dinner. After dinner, we got a quick tour of the house. The other kitchen was much bigger, and I was blown away by the number of utensils they had.
After a quick chat with the local guests, we got back to our room. Kent was reading a book, and Manish had got the woodstove going. The woodstove would keep us warm for at least an hour or two. After figuring out the optimal combination of our layers and blanket/sleeping bag, we called it a night.
Day 2: Yurutse – Ganda La – Shingo
December 4: 11 km and 10 hours hike
Breakfast was at 8 am, and we had chapati, butter, omelette and tea. We had slept well, had a good breakfast and were ready for the big day. At least that’s what we thought.
For the first hour, the hike was not steep. Soon we were at a summer campsite. After a quick break, we continued with our walk. Now there was snow on the trail, and it got steeper.
Ganda La – takes your breath away – Literally!
In 2018, Kasturi had a skiing accident resulting in a high-grade ACL and MCL tear in her left leg. It had taken more than a year of physiotherapy for her to feel comfortable on steep long-distance hikes. She had done multiple hikes back in Vancouver to prepare for this, but Ganda La was a different beast. The high altitude made everything difficult.
Kasturi was exhausted. She could barely walk for a few minutes before stopping to catch her breath. She handed her bag to Manish. Later, Kundan and Kent were also helped by Ali and Manish to get to Ganda La. Asking for help is never easy. But given the exertion, altitude and the time, there was no other option.
From Yurutse to Ganda La, it’s roughly 810 m of elevation gain over 5 km. Grouse Grind in Vancouver has an elevation gain of 853 m over 2.9 km. An average person can do the Grind in an hour and a half. It took us six hours to get to Ganda La.
Without Ali, Manish and Ravinder’s help, I don’t think the group could have made it to Ganda La in time.
Ali and I hiked up the small hill North West of the pass. As per Gaia maps, we were right around 5010 m (16,440 ft.). It’s the highest elevation that I have hiked/climbed so far.
When the going gets tough…
It was all downhill from Ganda la to Shingo, but it still took us roughly four hours to get to our homestay. Icy stream crossings were tricky to cross without any kind of traction gear.
Kent leads a very active lifestyle. He had been hiking and training for the last few months in Kelowna. However, it was not possible to prepare for this elevation. It was his first time in a very high altitude environment, and it was physically very demanding. His mental toughness helped him overcome the challenges, and we all admired him for that.
Thoroughly exhausted, we reached Shingo at around 7 pm. Our homestay host was already busy preparing dinner for us. An eagle claw and fox tail was hanging in the kitchen. Locals consider these as good luck. It was a quick dinner and we were in bed by 8:30 pm.
Day 3: Shingo – Skiu – Kaya
December 5: 7 km and 4 hours hike
After breakfast, we left Shingo at around 9:30 am. It was probably the coldest start we had on the trek since we were hiking in the shade for more than an hour.
The hike from Shingo to Skiu was going to test our skills on the ice. However, relative to Ganda La, everything seemed more manageable.
Around 1 pm we reached Skiu. We were happy to see Brady there. He had arrived a day before with Stanzin after he got an all-clear from the doctor in Leh hospital. He was super excited to join us. The monastery in Skiu was closed, so we continued our hike to Kaya.
On the way to Kaya, we saw a very basic watermill to grind flour. Occasionally a villager would stop by, check on the canal and use the watermill.
No Khaini….No Trek
Once in Kaya, Stanzin mentioned that Ravinder will now go back to Leh. For the rest of the trek, it will be just Ali and Manish with us. Ravinder had not packed enough Khaini (a form of chewing tobacco) for the trek, and he was not able to buy any in Kaya or Skiu. Without Khaini, he couldn’t carry on. So, Ravinder drove back to Leh with Stanzin.
After we dropped our bags in the room, we gathered around the kitchen for some hot tea and snacks, and more importantly, to keep warm.
We had a traditional Ladakhi dinner of Sku (like whole-wheat pasta) in a vegetable broth. It was delicious and filling. Back in our room, it was five of us now. I was closest to the stove and kept it going for a while. I was reading Sapiens – A Brief History of Humankind.
Day 4: Kaya – Sara
December 6: 12 km and 5 hours hike
Kundan woke up with a bad cold. He was sleeping close to the window and didn’t have enough blankets. Having done the hardest part of the trek, he decided to continue with us.
The Blacksmith
On our way to Sara, we made a quick stop at the Blacksmith’s house in Skiu. Ali mentioned that the ancestors of this Blacksmith came from Nepal and settled in Skiu as the sand here was best suited for their profession.
The Blacksmith showed some of his recent creations. We bought a few items, and after a round of tea, we were back on the trail.
Markha Valley Wildlife
On our hike to Sara, we saw blue sheep. They were gracefully making their way up the mountain.
Winter in Ladakh also provides a unique opportunity to spot an endangered species – snow leopard. However, we didn’t get lucky and had to be content with stories of this elusive and solitary animal.
It was an easy hike to Sara, and by around 2:30 pm, we reached our homestay.
A 16-year old boy welcomed us at the homestay. Winter vacation had started, and he had just returned home from Leh. First, he made some tea and then got busy making Chutagi (similar to a bow-tie pasta served in a vegetable broth).
The Rider
Later in the evening, a few more people arrived. One individual was in a traditional Ladakhi dress and was blind in one eye. When I asked what happened, he replied, “A childhood accident.” He had just come down from Nimaling riding his horse and was going to Skiu. He had left his horses at Nimaling to graze, and few didn’t bother to return, so he had gone to find them.
Nimaling, as you can see from Ju-Leh maps, is more than 40 km from Skiu and has an elevation gain of around 1500 m. Ali said he was the best rider in the valley and had won in local competitions. This rider was the Blacksmith’s son.
Day 5: Sara – Markha
December 7: 10 km and 3 hours hike
The hike from Sara to Markha has spectacular views of the valley. Locals were going from Markha to Skiu to catch the weekly bus or to pick up some supplies that would have arrived on the bus. We met no other hikers throughout our trek.
By noon we were already at our homestay in Markha. As you might have guessed by now, we got ourselves a cup of tea, some snacks and sat down admiring the view from the homestay.
The homestay owner said that during peak season, it is so busy that the trekkers occupy the entire farm. I was certainly glad we were there in the winter.
Sliding on Ice – Markha Style
Later in the afternoon, we hiked to the monastery in the village. On the way to the monastery was the Markha school. Right next to school, three kids were having fun on ice with their makeshift sleds. Sometimes they would chase each other, and at times they would compete to see who goes the farthest on ice. It was an absolute treat to watch.
Ali was nostalgic and said it reminded him of his childhood in Leh.
Markha Monastery
After a short hike, we were at the monastery.
Kundan had a good chat with the resident monk about his daily routine, different sects of Buddhism and their different philosophies. I am always amazed at how Kundan can pick up a conversation with anyone. Whether its a monk or a taxi driver, his genuine curiosity leads to a discussion about their daily life and helps him connect with individuals uniquely.
We hiked back to our homestay for dinner. Soon, we settled in for what seemed like our customary chat with some tea. Later, Ali, Manish and the homestay owner joined in on the discussion.
Brady shared his experiences – from working in the Canadian Arctic in Nunavut to adventures in Nepal. As he talked about the differences and similarities of distant cultures, the homestay owner asked, “How old is this guy?” I replied, “Early 30s.” He couldn’t believe it. It was a fun evening.
Day 6: Markha – Kaya
December 8: 22 km and 6 hours
After two days of cold, Kundan was feeling much better. He would need all his strength for a long 22 km walk back to Kaya.
On our way back, I spent some time hiking with Ali and Manish.
Climber and an Ultra-Runner
Ali usually guides technical climbing trips, but since it was winter, he was available to guide a trekking trip. We talked about the recent ban on climbing in Stok Kangri, his favourite climb – Kang Yatse-I and his plans to do some first ascents in the region.
Ali had climbed with people from all over the world. So, it was interesting to discuss the differences in climbing/gear techniques across regions. Also, Ali is an excellent photographer.
Manish had done several treks in the area. While he was not local, he knew the valley pretty well. A couple of years back, he did the 72 km Khardung La Challenge. Since the peak elevation is at around 5370 m and 60 km of the race above 4000 m, it is the highest ultra marathon in the world. Manish would have probably done the entire Markha Valley trek in half a day.
Mission Accomplished!
We reached Kaya around 3 pm and with that, we finished our Markha Valley trek. Finally, after months of planning, coordination and training, we had achieved our goal – of trekking together in the Himalayas and having a good time!
I offered to cook our last dinner, and to my surprise, the homestay lady agreed. So, Manish and I got busy making Veg-Fried Rice for our group as well as the family members – 13 people in total. Everyone survived the dinner. I had qualified to be a cook on Ali’s next expedition.
The next day we would drive back to Leh and explore nearby places.
Trek & Travel Tips –
Ecological Footprint – Stanzin was very responsive and was open to customize the trip for us. Most importantly, he was a massive help in getting Brady to the hospital for a follow-up visit and driving him to Skiu to join us after three days. Moreover, Stanzin provided gaiters, jackets and trekking poles at no extra cost. There are few things that Stanzin could have done better in terms of communication and logistics, but overall he did a good job.
TipToeLadakh is Ali’s website on climbing and trekking expeditions.
Acclimatization tips – First of all, rest at the guesthouse/hotel on your day of arrival. Secondly, if you are hiking to Leh Palace, do it at a relaxed pace. Maybe, add another day to acclimatization if feasible. Drink more water to avoid dehydration. Also, if you plan to take Diamox (Acetazolamide), please consult your doctor and local guide. Probably, you want to start the Diamox course before arriving in Leh. MedWild has an excellent video series on altitude illness.
Winter Gear – Because the temperature in some of the remote areas might drop below -20 C, you have to pack appropriate winter gear. Furthermore, make sure that you have a suitable sleeping bag. Homestays are not heated, so it is critical to have good insulation at night.
Disclosure: I am not affiliated with any of the above individuals or organizations.
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Superb Shashi! Enjoyed reading it! Looking forward for more.. Subscribed!!
Thanks a ton Veena.
Once again, it is interesting to see how times have changed in the Himalaya. I climbed Kang Yaze II (or the west peak of the mountain, which is technically straightforward) in 2001 and could see down the Markha Valley which we did not visit. We came in over the Kongmaru La and returned the same way to Martselang and Hemis. Here is the link to that story : https://taccidental.blogspot.com/2014/10/kang-yaze-trekking-peak.html
Thank Aloke for reading the post and for sharing the link to your post. In December, there was no other hiking group, so we had a good time at the homestays and enjoyed the hike.
Hi Shashi,
Need some help.
Do you have a number of the Owner of Yurutse Home Stay?
Regards,
Nikhil.
I think I replied to this, but I don’t see my comment. I do not have the number of the homestay in Yurutse.
Great article! We hope to do this trek in March next year, do you think it will be possible to do independently?
Thank you Leah. You can do it independently, assuming you have the right group and have experience doing remote high-altitude treks. Also, when you go might also help. In December, we did not see any other group, but it would be crowded earlier in the year. Our host in Markha said his entire farm is filled with tents in summer. Let me know if you need any additional information. Wish you the best!