Ladakh – Land of Mountain Passes

Kasturi and I were in Ladakh for 12 days in December 2019 to do the Markha Valley Trek. I have shared my experience in three blog posts, and this is the first in the series. The second post describes our trek, and the third post is about our day trips around Leh after the trek. Continue reading to know more about Leh, our acclimatization hike, Khardung La and our Emergency Room visit.

An Indian Affair – Where it All Began

It was January 2019, and we had recently returned to Vancouver from our trip to India. We met Kent, Barb and their daughter Morgan for dinner at a local Indian restaurant – An Indian Affair. Kasturi and I shared details about our time in India while Kavya was busy playing a word game – a gift from Barb. 

Furthermore, I talked about my Kedarkantha trek and expressed my desire to go back and do a similar trek in the Himalayas. One thing led to another, and by the time we finished our dinner, we had made plans to do a trek in India towards the end of the year. 

Over the next few days, I researched trek options in Ladakh, Uttarakhand and Sikkim region in India. While all these regions are unique and beautiful, Ladakh seemed the best option based on timing, connectivity and group’s interests.

Now, December is not a popular time of the year to trek in Ladakh. However, based on some preliminary research Markha Valley Trek seemed feasible. So, we decided to do this popular trek in the first week of December 2019. Kent and his son Brady would join us on the trek. Barb and Morgan planned to explore nearby villages and monasteries while we were away.

In the following months, we finalized travel dates, booked our flights, picked a local guide and reserved the guesthouse. Barb was responsible for booking the flights, hotels, tours, visas, and researching other things to do in India for her family. As a result, she spent countless hours planning the trip. She was meticulous, and I don’t think this trip would have happened without Barb. 

Leh – Landing at 3500 m

Last year around the same time, I was on the summit of Kedarkantha at 3800 m. While this year, I was starting my journey from Leh at 3500 m.

“Leh is the Light of the Himalaya”

Lonely Planet

We arrived in Leh on November 30. Morgan and her friend Phil came to receive us at the airport.

Morgan, by now, has been in India for more than a month. She volunteered at an orphanage and was taking care of infants. Some of the stories she shared about the kids were heart-wrenching. It was Morgan’s first visit to India, and I respected her commitment to help these kids despite all odds.

Just before coming to Leh, Morgan had made a weeklong trip to Sikkim with Phil. Both had arrived in Leh two days before and were well acclimatized.

Sia La Guesthouse

A short taxi ride took us to Sia La guesthouse. It is just 10 minutes walk from the market, and at least in December, it was peaceful. Arif (owner’s son) and his staff helped us settle in and got some hot tea (chai) and snacks. It was freezing.

Sia La is one of the few guesthouses that are open in winter. So, in addition to tourists, we had people from Government agencies and NGOs staying there. Mr. Sahu, from 17,000 ft foundation, was one of them. It was good to chat with him about Ladakh, work his foundation is doing with schools and challenges related to education in the region.

My friend Kundan, with whom I have done several treks since our undergrad days, arrived on December 1. Markha Valley Trek was going to be our third consecutive trek in the Himalayas after Kheerganga (2017) and Kedarkantha (2018). I have been looking forward to meet him and do this trek together.

Leh Market

The first day in Leh was a rest day with an easy walk to the market for dinner. Because it was low season, there were very few tourists in the market. So, most businesses that cater to tourists like hotels, restaurants, bike rentals, etc. were closed.

After a good dinner, we walked back to the guesthouse. The heater in the room is on for a limited time in the evening. So, we got blankets and a hot water bag. We would slip the water bag under the blanket to keep warm at night. We used the same trick with our Nalgene water bottles at homestays on our trek.

Acclimatization Hike in Leh

Just before this trip, I had completed the ‘Intro to Wilderness First Aid,’ a 2-day course from Canada West Mountain School. As per the manual, here is the definition of high altitude zones – 

High Altitude: 1500-3500 m (5000-11500 ft)

Very High Altitude: 3500-5500 m (11500-18000 ft)

Extreme Altitude: above 5500 m (above 18000 ft)

Acclimatization is how our body adapts to the high altitude surroundings. Leh is at 3500 m, and the highest elevation in our Markha Valley Trek was going to be around 5000 m. Therefore, acclimatization was going to be vital to our health in this environment.

Typically, people stay in Leh for two days before venturing out. Some of us had just arrived from Canada and had jetlag. Therefore, we decided to acclimatize in Leh for three days.

The second day we went to Leh Palace for our acclimatization hike. Leh was the historical capital of the Himalayan Kingdom of Ladakh, and the royal family lived in Leh Palace. This palace was constructed around 1600 A.D. and is nine stories high.

Tsemo Monastery

Higher up is the Tsemo monastery established in the early 15th century. Few of us continued the hike up to this monastery.

The monastery was closed, but I could see a beautiful idol through the windows. It was the three-story high idol of Maitreya Buddha. A quick walk around the monastery offered stunning views of Leh and the majestic mountains.

$1 Emergency Room Visit

Just after sunset, we started our hike down. As we were heading back to the guesthouse, Brady slowed down, and soon he was throwing up by the side of the road. We felt it must be the food and jet lag, and not altitude sickness, as he didn’t have any headache. 

The group was down for dinner at the guesthouse kitchen, but Brady didn’t join us. Since our hike back, he has been struggling to take any food or water. Consequently, we decided to take Brady to the hospital. 

Brady couldn’t walk without support and was struggling to keep his eyes open. Arif drove us to the hospital and guided us to the Emergency Room. We sat in the waiting area as there were few more patients ahead of us.

Soon we were in the doctor’s office. After a quick diagnosis, the doctor recommended that we admit Brady to the hospital. The nurse gave him O2 Inhaler, IV – 1 bottle, Dexamethasone, Pentapoxy (might have the name wrong) and Ondem. Fortunately, Brady recovered, and after two hours, we were back at the guesthouse. 

Kudos to SNM Hospital in Leh and its staff for helping tourists in an emergency. With no insurance, the total cost of our quick trip to the Emergency clinic with the medicines was around INR 60 – just around one dollar. Wow! 

Arif has been a massive help during this emergency. He was always there for us. When I expressed my gratitude, he replied, “It’s my duty.”

Khardung La

We had one more day before we left for our trek. So, we decided to go to Khardung La (La means mountain Pass in Tibetan). Arif arranged a taxi for us and also got us the required permit.

Khardung La is the gateway to Nubra Valley and is at an elevation of probably 5370 m (contradicting information online vs. road signs). It’s approximately 40 km from Leh, and the drive is beautiful. Border Roads Organization that maintains the road to Khardung La will treat you to humorous road signs.

“If you are married, divorce speed.”

– road sign on the way to Khardung La

After one and a half hours drive we were at Khardung La. The visibility was minimal and it was freezing (probably -15C or lower). So, after a quick walk around the area we got back in the car and drove back to Leh. Tomorrow we start our Markha Valley Trek. 

Travel Tips

I found Dan and Audrey’s blog Uncornered Market very helpful in planning the trip.

Sia La Guesthouse – would definitely recommend this guesthouse. Arif – Thank you!

17,000 ft Foundation – Mr. Sahu and his team are doing some fantastic work in the region. For instance, check out their unique MapMySchool program.

Acclimatization tips – First of all, rest at the guesthouse/hotel on your day of arrival. Secondly, if you are hiking to Leh Palace, do it at a relaxed pace. Maybe, add another day to acclimatization if feasible. Drink more water to avoid dehydration. Also, if you plan to take Diamox (Acetazolamide), please consult your doctor and local guide. Probably, you want to start the Diamox course before arriving in Leh. MedWild has an excellent video series on altitude illness.

Winter Gear – Because the temperature in some of the remote areas might drop below -20 C, you have to pack appropriate winter gear. Furthermore, make sure that you have a suitable sleeping bag. Homestays are not heated, so it is critical to have good insulation at night.

Disclosure: I am not affiliated with any of the above individuals or organizations.

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