“Do you want to do West Lion scramble coming weekend?” I texted Oudi. “I have something better; let’s do Garibaldi.” came the reply. The plan was to climb Garibaldi North-East Face via Brohm Ridge. This route is rated AD- Ice in Alpine Select. Plus, Oudi is my mentor. It was an easy decision for me; West Lion scramble would have to wait.
Trip Planning
Last year Steve House put out an excellent series of Alpine Principles videos as part of his digital mentorship program. The first principle is “Perfect Preparation.” I am a long way from applying all the sub-principles, but I will explain my approach to reviewing the route and packing light.
Garibaldi North-East Face
The first thing I did was read more about this route and get a sense of the effort required to climb it. I downloaded a KML file from Bivouac and loaded it into Google Earth to visualize the climb.
Here is the view of the same route in GAIA GPS –
We planned to park at the gate and hike to the bivvy site (first campsite to the left in the above map) on Brohm ridge. The next day we would have an alpine start, continue on Brohm ridge, travel across Warren Glacier to get to Garibaldi’s North-East Face.
Then, I searched on Instagram for the most recent pictures of Garibaldi. That’s when I came across Cristian’s profile. He had just done the climb, and the conditions looked good.
Packing for an Overnight Alpine Climb
Here again, I was inspired by Steve House’s video, where he shares his approach to packing for an overnight climb. Here is what I packed for my climb –
Bivvy gear – tarp (footprint of my 3-person tent), cord, stakes, sleeping pad and sleeping bag
Climbing Gear – Helmet, Alpine Boots, Crampons, Ice Axe, Ice Tool, 1 Snow Picket, 2 Ice Screws + V-thread tool, 1 Quick Draw, 2 Double Length Slings, 2 Prusiks, 2 Pulleys, 3 Locking Biners, Alpine Harness, Belay Device
Food – 6 Indian Palak Parathas (Spinach Flatbread) + Melted Cheese (Quesadilla style), 2 Instant Chai Mix, Trail Mix, a small block of cheese, 2 Liters of Water, Jetboil, Fuel Canister, 1 Spoon
Clothing – Softshell Jacket, 1 pair of Gloves, Balaclava, Cap, 2 Pair of Socks, Glacier Glasses. I will be wearing a Full-Sleeve Synthetic Shirt and Softshell Pant.
Misc. – Sunscreen, Hand-sanitizer, Toothpaste, Medical kit, Head Lamp + Extra Batteries, Coros Apex Watch + Wahoo Tickr, Cell Phone + Earbuds,
Total pack weight was 27 lbs, around 20% of my body weight. I would help Oudi with carrying the rope, which would add another 7-8 lb. As I climb more, I will further refine my packing, but I was happy to have everything packed in a 35L pack.
Brohm River FSR
I picked up Oudi from Surrey at around 4 pm and met Anna and Beata at David’s Church. Mike, who lives in Squamish, met us at the parking along Cat Lake Road right off Hwy 99. Anna and Beata got in Mike’s truck. Oudi and I would drive in my Subaru as far as possible and then go with Mike.
After roughly 6 km, we saw an SUV parked, and Oudi recommended that we park the Subaru here. We got all the bags and hopped in Mike’s truck. Soon, we realized it was an excellent decision to park the Subaru. The road condition was terrible, and a high clearance 4X4 is required. Without Mike’s truck, this trip would not have happened.
Hike to Bivvy on Brohm Ridge
Around 6:30 pm, we reached the gate, and we soon hit the trail.
After 30 minutes of hiking, we were at the Brohm Ridge Chalet. Further ahead on the trail, the Tantalus Range looked stunning in late evening sunlight.
Around forty minutes into the hike, there seemed to be a shorter route on the right that would potentially cut down the distance and time to get to our bivvy site. The GPX track I had showed a trail as well.
After 10 minutes of bushwhacking and scrambling over scree, we realized that there is no shortcut. The GPX track was probably 10 years old and was from early in the season. As we turned to get back to our trail, we saw the alpine glow on Garibaldi mountain.
After about an hour of hiking, we took our first break. Beata said she smelled something – like vomit. It was my cheese in a ziplock bag. “Thanks Beata.” I didn’t have many options for food, I nibbled on the cheese and continued hiking. For the rest of the trip, every time we took a break I offered cheese to Beata.
Around 9:15 pm, we reached the bivvy site. The wind was flowing East-West direction, and I set up the tarp facing West so that it provided shelter as we cooked. There was enough room for Oudi and I to sleep diagonally under it.
Right next to us, Beata set up her bivvy bag. It was her first time using the bag, and was a bit uncomfortable at first. She described it as a “coffin.” Anna and Mike bivvied on the other side of the trail.
Foam-Rolling & Meditation at the Bivvy
By 10:30 pm, we wrapped up dinner, melted snow and tried to sleep. I usually don’t have a problem sleeping, but this night was different. An hour later, I found myself staring at the sky. Note to self – don’t drink chai just before you go to bed.
I had a warm Nalgene bottle inside the sleeping bag. For the next 10-15 minutes, I did a foam-roller type massage with this bottle, which felt amazing. But no sleep yet.
Past midnight, I got my earbuds out and played an episode of Raph Reiter’s podcast. Back at home, twice I had fell asleep listening to this meditation podcast, once I was sitting on a chair. Surely, I thought, it will help me get some sleep when I need it the most. No luck!
By now, the moon was in its full glory. I just enjoyed the view of the moonlit mountains and thought about our climb.
Alpine Start
Soon, it was 2 am, and everyone was up. We had breakfast, melted some more snow and prepared the rope for glacier travel. By 3:30 am, we were on our way.
We continued on Brohm Ridge and reached Warren Glacier. Late in the season, the glacier was just bare ice. We put on our crampons and roped up in two teams: Oudi-Anna-Shashi and Beata-Mike.
Further ahead, there was snow on the glacier, making the traverse more comfortable. Around 5:45 am, we were at our first major crevasse. Oudi put in a picket and slowly crossed the snow bridge and set up a quick belay station.
As we approached the Garibaldi Neve, we turned right towards Garibaldi’s North-East face.
The sky was lightening up, and soon I witnessed one of the most beautiful sunrises I have seen.
As we got closer to the mountain, we had a better view of the route. We could see a trail on the left-hand side of the bergschrund that went straight up.
The Crux of the Climb
We climbed to the bergschrund and traversed left to the base of the headwall. The headwall is a 50-degree climb and about 45 m in length.
We had one 60 m rope, but the other one was only 40 m. So we climbed this section in two pitches. It took us more than an hour to get to the top of the climb.
The hardest part of the climb was done, and it seemed like an easy scramble to the summit. After a short break, we made our way to the summit. The last section is made of crumbly volcanic rock. “Choss pile” is how most people describe it. Going up this section was my least favourite part of the entire climb.
Mount Garibaldi Summit
Just after 9 am, we were on the summit of Mount Garibaldi at 2678 m. It had taken just above five and a half hours from the bivvy site to get to the summit. Mike opened the summit register and browsed through entries, some of them from the 80s. We made an entry for our group.
It was another beautiful clear day with clear views of the mountains all around us.
Few group shots –
The Descent
After a short break, we started our descent.
We were soon at the top of the headwall. Oudi had already built a rappel station. I rappelled down first and built an anchor to secure myself. We were still about 5 m higher than the base of the climb. Mike followed, and once he was at the anchor, I downclimbed the last section by securing myself with a chain of double-length slings. Others followed soon.
Oudi was the last one to come down. Mike and I were unsure what Oudi was doing, so we recommended leaving some gear if needed for the rappel. Oudi just waved a “No” to us. He built a snow bollard, tested it and then slowly made his way down.
As we geared up to head down, I was at the front. Soon we were down on the glacier plateau. We had full visibility of the crevasses, but navigating through them was still mentally exhausting for me.
Once we were on the bare ice of Warren Glacier, we took a break and refilled our bottles. A couple more snowfield traverses, and we were off the glacier and on the Brohm Ridge.
Soon, we were back at our bivvy site.
I took off my boots and let my feet breathe for a while. After a 30-minute break, we were back on the trail. I was using two trekking poles to reduce the stress on the knees. The 7 km of mostly downhill hiking was a slog. Around 5 pm, we reached the gate.
Google Earth – Amazing Visualization Tool
Car to car, it had taken us more than 22 hours to cover 26 km, with close to 1700 m of total elevation gain/loss. Calories burned – 6272. Earlier in the trip, Anna made a comment that on our way back, I looked stoned. Later, Mike shared a picture that confirmed it.
“I am not stoned, I just climbed Mount Garibaldi.”
Resources:
Trip Reports: Mountain Wagon | White Web | Coast Mountain Guides
GPX Files: GAIA GPS Brohm River FSR | GAIA GPS Garibaldi NE Face | Bivouac
Alpine Climbing: Alpine Savvy Video Series | Steve House Alpine Principles
Glossary of climbing terms.
If you are in Lower Mainland, check out British Columbia Mountaineering Club for trips and courses.
Disclosure: I am a member of BCMC. I am not affiliated with any of the other organizations.
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Sun rise tumba chanda kantade
Thanks amma.
sagale perfect karatos mhanun koutuk
vatate.
khoop chan.
Thank you!
Shashi, this is amazing. I am planning to do a similar route beginning of September. Is there a an alternative to the headwall? Something less steep that does not require ice axe but just crampons and a piolet.
Do you think September is a good month?
Cheers!
Arnaud,
Thank you for your comment.
Garibaldi East Face (PD+ Ice) is the only other route that I am aware of. It is a relatively easier but long route (40 km round trip). If you don’t have one, I would recommend buying a copy of the Alpine Select guidebook. Also, I think you meant ice tool. On the Garibaldi East Face route, you should be able to do it with just one ice axe (piolet).
Wish you the best!