Last weekend was one of the best weekends of 2020. Friday-Saturday was backcountry camping with family at Viewpoint beach in Golden Ears Park. On Sunday, I did a 24 km round-trip hike to Golden Ears summit with British Columbia Mountaineering Club (BCMC).
Backcountry Camping at Viewpoint Beach
Just two weeks back, we did a family hike at Golden Ears Provincial Park with Parag and his family. We had hiked over 10 km in a day going to Viewpoint beach and Gold Creek falls. Kavya enjoyed the hike, and we decided to try backcountry camping at Viewpoint beach.
On Friday, we left home around 4 pm. Once we were at the Golden Ears Park, I realized that we didn’t pack the stove. Going back home would delay our hike by two hours, so we decided to continue. We had parathas (type of Indian bread), bananas and salsa+chips for food.
East Canyon Trail
By 5 pm, we were on East Canyon Trail. I was carrying a 70 L pack, and it probably weighed around 30 lbs. Kasturi was carrying a 50L pack, and Kavya had her small backpack.
About 30 minutes into the hike, we met a couple returning from Viewpoint beach. They said there was a one-foot-deep pool of water just before the beach, and since they didn’t feel comfortable going through it.
Kasturi and Kavya had a pair of sandals, but I didn’t. But more importantly, if this young couple didn’t feel comfortable crossing this pool, how would we do it? I was skeptical and ready to turn around, but Kavya and Kasturi suggested that we give it a try.
On the trail we had quite a few streams and we did our best to keep our feet dry.
After another 45 minutes of hiking, we were almost at the beach and just had to cross the pool. It was not as bad as I expected. It was probably 6 inches deep. I took off my shoes and walked barefoot. Kavya and Kasturi put on their sandals and followed me.
Viewpoint Beach
There were two groups camped at the beach. We took a spot between the two groups and set up our tent. By the time we got done, it was 7 pm, and we had dinner.
Kasturi and I stepped out later for a quick walk around the beach. Kavya was tired and stayed in the tent, reading a book. Around 8 pm, it started drizzling, and we were all confined to our tent.
Our neighbours had a different idea of backcountry camping. It was a young couple, and they were blasting music. I thought maybe it would die down after 10 pm (typically quiet hours when we do car camping). By now, Kavya was grumpy and declared, “…this is the worst camping experience, EVER!”
Finally, at 10:45 pm, I walked over to the neighbouring campsite and requested them to turn down the music. “Sure, no problem.” was the response. By 11 pm, we were asleep.
Kavya didn’t seem too happy when she woke up the next day.
Kasturi and Kavya took a short walk around the beach, comparing water levels to the previous day. Fortunately, the pool’s water level was much lower, and we didn’t have to take off our shoes on our hike back. Kavya was back in her happy mode.
We had a quick breakfast of bananas and packed up our tent. By 9 am, we were back on the trail.
We made a quick stop at the connector bridge.
After hiking for another hour or so, we were back at the parking lot. The backcountry camping didn’t go as we expected, but it was a good learning experience. Note to self – make sure to check for stove next time and bring earplugs.
Golden Ears Scramble
From my office, I have a beautiful view of the Golden Ears. Since I moved to Vancouver in 2016, I have wondered what it would be like to be on the summit of Golden Ears.
On Saturday, we got back from backcountry camping at Golden Ears. It was an easy effort from an aerobic standpoint, but the hike with a heavy backpack did make it a bit strenuous.
By Sunday morning, I was feeling better. I woke up early and reached Golden Ears Park by 6:45 am. Slawomir, with whom I have been climbing for the last three years, agreed to join. So I had posted the trip on the BCMC website, and three people had signed up for the trip – Julie, Stephanie and Hamayun. We met at the Information Center and then drove to the West Canyon parking lot.
We hit the trail around 7:20 am. For the first hour, it was an easy hike on relatively flat terrain.
Last weekend, when I was on this trail with Hamayun and Stephanie, we had zero visibility of Gold Creek. Today, we had a beautiful view.
By 9 am, we were at Alder Flats. It was a tent city, with some people camping right on the trail. We continued to hike and took a break at 6 km mark. From here on, the trail got steep.
Alder Flats to Panorama Ridge
Around 7 km, there was an opening, and we had a good view of the ridge.
As we entered back in the forest, it was a bug-fest. Julie was kind enough to share her bug spray, but it just provided some temporary relief. After another two hours of hiking, we were in the open and getting closer to Panorama Ridge. We now had snow on the trail, and it was more than I had expected this time of the year.
To our right, we had a beautiful view of the Pitt Lake.
We took a short break before the hut. Julie decided to turn around at this point and head back to the parking lot. Hamayun and Stephanie hiked up to the emergency hut and hiked back down after taking a break.
At the hut, few tent pads were clear of snow.
Hike to the Summit
Slawomir and I continued our hike uphill. By now, we had put on the microspikes, and I had my ice axe out. Looking ahead, we could see a trail that goes straight to the crest and then goes right on the snowfield.
At one point, I referred to the GPX I had downloaded from Outdoor Vancouver. We were right of the trail, but I guess the GPX was for a late-season route with less snow. We followed the less steep path on the snowfield and eventually got back on the trail for the scramble section.
Scramble part was easier than I expected. After six hours of hiking, we were on the summit. Just as we were feeling good about our hike, two trail runners sprinted up. No microspikes, no hiking poles or ice axe. It took them only three hours to get to the summit. Amazing!
We had a great day so far in terms of weather, but the summit views were limited.
Hike Back to the Parking Lot
After a 10 minute break, we started to hike down. We had a quick descent to the emergency hut. This hut was built in 2002 by members of Golden Ears Trail Preservation and Restoration Club, and is an impressive hut.
As we continued along the ridge, the sky cleared and we had a great view of the mountains. Slawomir and I picked up the pace, and bugs were less of an issue on our hike down.
We refilled our water bottle at the stream just after Alder Flats. It was an easy hike down and we were back at the parking lot by 5:30 pm. I later learned that Hamayun and Stephanie had caught up with Julie and they had reached the parking lot just 20 minutes before us.
It was my longest outing since I started Uphill Athlete’s 24-week mountaineering plan. I was tired after a 10-hour 24 km hike, and more than 1500 m of elevation gain and drop, but I felt great. I still have a long way to go in building aerobic capacity, but I am making progress.
Hopefully, someday I can hike up here with Kasturi and Kavya.
Resources:
Trail Info: East Canyon Trail | Golden Ears Summit Hike
Golden Ears Provincial Park Website
Online Camping reservation/backcountry permit
To read more about the Golden Ears Emergency Hut, checkout this post on Club Tread.
Back in 1920s, Maple Ridge had the largest logging operation in British Columbia. Maple Ridge Museum and this document provide a great overview of the logging operations in Golden Ears Provincial Park.
Matt Gunn’s Book – Scrambles in Southwest British Columbia
If you are in Lower Mainland, check out British Columbia Mountaineering Club for trips and courses.
Disclosure: I am not affiliated with any of the above individuals or organizations.
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Aai ga kasale mast views aahet
khoop chan.!!!
Thank you!
Tumba chanda madi baredidi Raja
Thank you!