This post about our time in Banos is the third one in the Ecuador – Andes series. The first was on Quito, and the second was on Quilotoa Lake. Banos was not on the original plan, but we booked a three-night stay as we shortened our trip around Quilotoa Lake. I am glad we spent some time in this beautiful city in the Andes.
Hostal D’Mathias
Based on its excellent reviews and location, we booked a private room in Hostal D’Mathias. It was the cheapest accommodation in our entire Ecuador trip, so I was skeptical.
We arrived at Hostal D’Mathias in the late afternoon. It was not busy, and the person at the front desk showed us a couple of rooms from which we could pick. We settled in a room that had a large window and a giant avocado tree right outside the window. Both Kasturi and Kavya declared it the best room on our entire trip.
The staff at the hostel was friendly and helped us book ziplining for the next day. Although we didn’t do much cooking, the hostel has a nice kitchen, refrigerator and some tables in the common area.
The hostel staff was also very helpful in planning our stay in Banos. After reviewing different options, we booked a ziplining tour for the next day.
Puntzan Canopy – Ziplining
It was raining when we got picked up from the hostel by Puntzan Canopy, one of the popular ziplining companies in Banos. After a 20-minute ride, we were at the private property of Puntzan Canopy, which offers different kinds of adventures like ziplining, canyoning, bungee jumping, etc.
Our zipline tour had six sections and covered a total distance of 2 km. After a quick orientation, the two guides helped us gear up, and we walked to the starting point of the first zipline. It was still raining, but we hardly noticed the rain in the canopy of the forest.
The guides were good at communicating what we should and shouldn’t be doing while ziplining. One guide would help us get set up at the start, while another would help us arrive at the end. The guides suggested different positions for our zipline (seated, upside down, superman, etc.) and even offered to take some pictures/videos.
Over the next one hour, we zipped across the forest, over a river, canyon and amazing waterfall views. One of my favourite parts was to see Kasturi and Kavya zipline together in a superman pose.
Kasturi and Kavya were brave enough to try the upside-down/bat-style pose on one of the lines.
On the final zipline – the longest one at 550 m, Kavya got stuck as she didn’t have the momentum to get to the end. One of the guides had to go and get her, and getting back to the station was quite an effort.
Overall, it was a great tour and a fun family activity. We wrapped up at the main office with some nachos. Kavya also made a friend.
Mirador La Cruz Bellavista
We were back in Banos for lunch, and after a short break, we hiked up to Mirador La Cruz Bellavista – a viewpoint at around 2050 m elevation. The hike starts near El Bosque Encantado (Enchanted Forest – a tourist attraction).
Over 1.2 km, the trail gains about 300 m in elevation. The trail has some steep sections and, depending on the season, can get muddy. But it is easy to follow and takes you to the viewpoint.
The gated viewpoint (Cruz de Bellavista) was closed, so we continued on the trail and came to a property that had a small cafe. Then, we realized that most of the photos online were from the platform and that this property had different viewpoints.
There is a fee to access the trail that takes you down some of these viewpoints, but we just ordered coffee and stayed on the upper level. Now, it was time for Kasturi to make some friends.
Pailón del Diablo
The next day, we took a public bus from Banos (at the intersection of Luis A. Martinez and Eloy Alfaro) to Cascada el Pailon on Rio Pastaza.
It was a scenic drive with views of several waterfalls along the way. Pailón del Diablo (Devil’s Cauldron) is a stunning waterfall in an even more impressive setting. It is also called Cascade el Pailón (other entrance).
There are two different ways to see the waterfall, and I would recommend both. Two private businesses manage the entrances, and you have to pay for them separately. A trail behind the waterfall connects both entrances, but has been blocked by a wall.
Devil’s Cauldron
We first hiked down to the entrance of Pailón del Diablo and continued on the trail to the much-anticipated cauldron. It didn’t disappoint.
We put on our rain jackets and walked down the steps to the platform that took us closer to this majestic waterfall. The jackets helped as the mist from the waterfall could have drenched us in minutes. I hiked back up and took a picture of Kasturi and Kavya from the balcony.
Devil’s Throat
Once Kasturi and Kavya climbed up the stairs, we had to crawl through some narrow passages – named Garganta del Diablo (Devil’s Throat) to get to the back of the waterfall.
We were there for barely a minute or two. Not much to see, but we were just excited to be so close to the waterfall and feel its energy.
Cafe and Suspension Bridge
We hiked back to the cafe and walked over the suspension bridge to the restaurant. The restaurant was closed, but the canyon views and the waterfall were incredible.
We hiked back to the cafe and then took a break for coffee and some snacks. Later, we hiked back up to the main road, crossed the bridge and went down to the other entrance.
Cascada el Pailón (other entrance)
It was a relatively short hike to another suspension bridge (above the waterfall) that we had seen from the cauldron. From here, we could see the full length of the waterfall.
The devil’s cauldron and the steps leading to the platform looked much scarier than they actually were. A few minutes later, we were behind the waterfall again. We were just on the other side of the wall two hours earlier.
After taking a ton of pictures, we walked back to the bus station and took the bus back to Banos.
Termas de la Virgen
Later in the evening, we visited Termas de la Virgen, which has hot springs in Banos. As a family, it was our first time visiting any hot springs.
There are multiple pools, with different temperatures and time limits. We went to the upper level with two pools. The storage, change room and showers were at the same level.
Even on a weekday evening, this place was packed. Families, couples, and groups of friends just hung out at the pools with a beautiful view of the waterfall.
We tried both the pools, and after about an hour or so, once we had worked up a good appetite, we went out for dinner.
Its Always Friday in Banos
Of all the places we visited in Ecuador, Banos had the best concentration of cafes, ice cream parlours, restaurants and pizzerias. You can also find some good eateries serving local food.
Some of our favourite places to eat were near the Parque Central (Central Park). Cafe Ricooo Pan y Panderia had the best crepes and selection of pastries. GelatoMix Banos is open till late at night and serves Helados con Queso (Ice cream with Cheese). Never thought there would be a combination like this, but it was good.
Cafe Colibri has a really cool setting and a beautiful art gallery. Early in the morning, there was no one else, and it was very peaceful. Sher E Punjab Rincon de la India is the only Indian restaurant in town. Still, it was surprisingly good, and we visited this place twice as we craved some familiar vegetarian food.
Santiago came to pick us up after our three-night stay in Banos. As we raved about our experience and the town itself, he said “It’s always Friday in Banos.” We couldn’t agree more.
We drove back to Quito and, after a one-night stay, were ready for the next leg of our journey – the Amazon.
Resources:
Ecuador Travel Guide: Happy Gringo
Hostel: Hostal D’Mathias
Trail: Mirador la cruz bellavista (All Trails)
Taxi/Tour Guide: Santiago Garzon (ecuadorguides@gmail.com)
Disclosure: The links I have shared in the post and under the Resources section are not Affiliate Links.
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tumba chanda Raja
मस्त लिहिले आहे, फोटो खूप छान आहेत.